Why I'll Never Take Johannesburg's Location for Granted

One of the things I appreciate most about Johannesburg is its proximity to the bush. For those unfamiliar with the term, "the bush" is South African shorthand for the country's wild natural landscapes. Think stretches of savanna, woodland and open land where wildlife thrives and mobile signal is less reliable. It's one of the reasons I've come to love living here. In less time than it would take many Londoners to reach the coast, we can swap pot holes for dirt roads and city noise for birdsong. That's exactly what we did recently with a weekend away at Grootfontein Private Nature Reserve in Limpopo.

Rather than being run by the state (like Kruger National Park), private nature reserves are owned and managed by individuals, families or conservation organisations. They are typically much smaller than Kruger, often focusing on a more intimate bush experience. While you're unlikely to spend hours searching for lions or elephants in many private reserves, the focus is often on enjoying the landscape itself, spotting plains game such as zebra, kudu and giraffe, walking in nature and switching off from everyday life.

Grootfontein's appeal lies as much in its landscape as its wildlife. The reserve offers a handful of secluded, off-grid lodges scattered across the property, each designed to make the most of the surrounding Bushveld. We stayed at Aloe Lodge, tucked between rocky hills with sweeping views across the reserve.

View from Aloe Lodge

We also took the Jimny, which finally got the chance to stretch its legs properly on the reserve's dirt tracks. With a few rocky sections and rougher roads to navigate, we even had an excuse to engage the 4x4. Ali was delighted, declaring that the Jimny had finally been returned to its natural habitat after spending most of its life tackling Johannesburg traffic and supermarket car parks.

The Grinch returned to its "natural habitat"

Of course, no weekend in the wilderness is entirely free from real-world responsibilities. One morning, we made a brief return to civilisation to stock up on some essential provisions (wine) and headed into nearby Thabazimbi. The town has a very different character to much of South Africa I have experienced, owing to its mining heritage. Industrial, practical and decidedly no-frills, it felt a world away from the tranquillity of the reserve. It was also the first place in South Africa where people only spoke to us Afrikaans rather than English, which made me feel like I'd wandered into a completely different country for an hour or two before retreating back to the bush.

One of the unexpected advantages of some private nature reserves like Grootfontein is that they are dog-friendly, something that would be unthinkable in a place like Kruger. That meant Pluto was able to join us for the weekend. Although with a nervous disposition, Pluto became increasingly anxious with the unfamiliar animal noises so I'm not sure he is built for the bush.

Pluto unsure of his surroundings

One morning, we tackled one of the reserve's hiking trails up into the mountains. The climb was well worth the effort. From the higher viewpoints, we were treated to sweeping panoramas across the Waterberg region, with views stretching seemingly forever towards Botswana in the distance.

Morning hike

Not every activity required quite so much exertion. One evening we headed out on a sunset drive through the reserve, timing it perfectly for golden hour. The low winter sun cast a warm glow across the landscape, turning the grasslands and rocky hills shades of gold and amber. Between the scenery, the wildlife sightings and the endless open space, it was one of those drives where you find yourself constantly reaching for your camera before eventually giving up and simply enjoying the view.

The 4x4 sunset drive

The real luxury of a Bushveld weekend, however, is having nowhere to be. One day we deliberately kept our plans to a minimum and made the most of Aloe Lodge itself. We spent the day reading, playing cards, eating a little too much, drinking a little too much and generally embracing a slower pace of life.

As enjoyable as the days were, the evenings were probably my favourite part of the trip. Winter in the bush brings glorious sunshine during the day, but temperatures drop surprisingly quickly once the sun disappears. As darkness fell, the fire pit became the centre of attention. Wrapped up against the cold, we spent our evenings admiring a crystal clear starry sky while Ali worked the braai. Bliss.

Evenings in Aloe Lodge

Weekends like this remind me why we moved to South Africa in the first place. Grootfontein offered exactly what we were looking for: a chance to disconnect from everyday life and reconnect with nature, all within easy reach of Johannesburg. Sometimes the best weekends aren't the ones packed with activities, but the ones that give you permission to do very little at all.

Notes from 26° South.